Tucked away in Tomales Bay State Park, Heart’s Desire Beach gives you a peaceful escape just about an hour from Berkeley. This cove, hidden and sheltered by cliffs, blocks the usual ocean winds, so you get a calm swimming spot that’s a lot warmer than the chilly Pacific. Families with small kids especially love Heart’s Desire for its gentle waters and soft sand.
You’ll find a mix of relaxation and activity here. There are picnic tables, BBQ grills, and long benches for a casual lunch. When you pull up, expect to pay $7-8 per car (credit card only) at the entrance. If you’re into hiking, trails branch out from the beach, winding through ferny canopies and coastal forest.
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Swimming, wading, beach games, and shoreline strolls are all big here. The natural setting gives you a real break from city life—without a crazy long drive. It’s one of those hidden Marin County spots that somehow feels both easy to reach and totally off the grid.
Overview of Heart’s Desire Beach
Heart’s Desire Beach sits in a sheltered cove with calm water and sandy shore—pretty much the dream for families looking for a mellow day by the water in Marin County.
Location and Setting
You’ll find Heart’s Desire Beach inside Tomales Bay State Park on the eastern side of Point Reyes National Seashore. The beach faces Tomales Bay, not the open ocean, so you get a protected spot with gentle waves. It’s about an hour’s drive from Berkeley, right near Inverness.
Because of its spot in the cove, there’s this microclimate that’s often warmer than the rest of the coast. You get calmer, more swimmable water than you’d ever expect from a Northern California beach.
Facilities are simple but convenient: bathrooms, a decent-sized parking lot, and easy access. On busy summer weekends, the lot fills up fast—arrive early if you want a space.
Unique Features of Heart’s Desire Beach
The main draw? Shallow, calm water that actually warms up, unlike the frigid Pacific. It’s ideal for swimming, especially for little kids who want to splash and play safely.
The wide sandy beach has plenty of room for:
- Picnicking under the trees
- Building sandcastles
- Launching kayaks
- Wading
- Birdwatching
Locals talk about the “warm microclimate”—and it’s not an exaggeration. Even when fog rolls in elsewhere, you might find yourself in a sunny, wind-free pocket here.
There are also short trails leading to other coves and a replica Miwok village just past the bathrooms, so there’s a bit of local history to check out.
History and Local Significance
For thousands of years, the Coast Miwok people called this area home. You can check out a recreated Miwok village close to the beach for a peek into that history.
Later, European settlers came for fishing, oysters, and dairy. These days, Tomales Bay is still famous for oysters—try them at restaurants in Inverness or Point Reyes Station if you’re curious.
Tomales Bay State Park was created to protect this spot’s wild beauty and cultural history. For a lot of locals, Heart’s Desire is a classic family beach that really shows off what makes Marin County unique.
Getting to Heart’s Desire Beach
Heart’s Desire Beach is tucked inside Tomales Bay State Park, and getting there takes a little planning. But it’s worth it for that sheltered swimming cove—especially for families.
Directions by Car
To get there, follow Sir Francis Drake Boulevard past Inverness, then keep heading north along the west side of Tomales Bay. The drive takes you through some pretty forested areas for about 20 minutes past Point Reyes Station. Watch for signs for Tomales Bay State Park on your right.
From Mill Valley, you’re looking at about 1 hour and 15 minutes. From most Bay Area spots, plan for 1.5 to 2 hours, traffic depending.
The last stretch is curvy—if anyone in your car gets carsick, you might want to bring something for that.
Parking and Beach Access
The main parking lot fills up fast on summer weekends and holidays. If you want a spot close to the beach, try to get there before 10 AM.
There’s a day-use fee for parking. Usually, you pay at the entrance kiosk or use a self-pay envelope.
From the lot, it’s an easy, short walk down a paved path to the sand. The beach area has:
- Picnic tables under the trees
- Restrooms
- Garbage and recycling bins
- A grassy lawn for spreading out
Public Transportation Options
Getting here by public transit is tricky, but not impossible if you plan ahead. The West Marin Stagecoach (Route 68) runs from San Rafael Transit Center to Inverness, stopping at Point Reyes Station.
From Inverness, you’ll need to:
- Use a rideshare
- Bike the last ~5 miles
- Call a taxi
If you’re coming from the Bay Area without a car, renting bikes in Point Reyes Station and making a day of it can be fun (just know there are some hills). No direct bus goes all the way to the beach, so private transportation is definitely easier.
Exploring Tomales Bay State Park
Tomales Bay State Park is a patchwork of beautiful beaches, hiking trails, and picnic spots along the eastern side of Tomales Bay. The park covers about 2,000 acres and has several beaches with calm water for swimming or just hanging out.
Park Entry and Facilities
The entrance is off Pierce Point Road, about an hour from San Francisco. There’s an entry fee ($8 per car as of 2025) at the Ranger Station near Heart’s Desire Beach. The park’s open 8 AM to sunset, year-round.
Facilities at the main area include:
- Clean restrooms with flush toilets
- Picnic tables (some shaded)
- Barbecue pits
- Drinking water
- Limited parking (seriously, it fills quickly on summer weekends)
The Vista Point Picnic Area has tables with great bay views and grills for cooking. There are trash and recycling bins, but it’s always good to pack out whatever you can.
Nearby Beaches Within the Park
Hiking trails connect several beaches in the park:
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Indian Beach: About a 0.7-mile walk from Heart’s Desire. It’s quiet, has some archaeological interest, and tide pools to poke around in. Not many facilities, though.
Pebble Beach: As you’d guess, this one’s mostly smooth stones, not sand. It’s about 0.8 miles from Heart’s Desire via a moderately challenging trail through the woods.
Shell Beach: The farthest at 1.5 miles from Heart’s Desire. It’s sandy, less crowded, and great for shell collecting at low tide. The hike there is lovely, with plenty of bay views.
All of these beaches share the same calm, protected water—perfect for families with kids who want to swim.
Recreational Activities at Heart’s Desire Beach
There’s a lot to do at Heart’s Desire Beach, all in a sheltered cove that feels tailor-made for families. The calm water and easy facilities make it a solid day trip.
Swimming and Water Safety
The swimming area here is ideal for families. The cove’s protection keeps the water calm—way safer for kids or anyone not super confident in the water.
A floating swim platform gives stronger swimmers a little challenge. Near the shore, the water stays shallow, so parents can relax a bit while keeping an eye on their kids.
A few things to know:
- No lifeguards are on duty
- Always watch your kids in the water
- Check weather conditions before you swim
- Watch for changing tides
Swimming is most comfortable in summer, when the water’s as warm as it gets up here (which, let’s be honest, is still brisk).
Kayaking on Tomales Bay
Tomales Bay is a fantastic spot for kayaking, especially if you’re new to paddling or want to try it as a family.
There’s a dedicated kayak launch area right on the beach. Bring your own, or rent from shops in Inverness.
Paddling here is a great way to see wildlife—think harbor seals, shorebirds, maybe a bat ray if you’re lucky, and plenty of fish.
If you want the calmest water, hit the bay in the morning before the wind picks up.
Picnicking and Barbecue Areas
The picnic facilities at Heart’s Desire are really well kept, making it a go-to for family gatherings. You’ll find lots of tables and BBQ pits—first come, first served.
Long, bench-style tables fit bigger groups, but you’ll want to show up early on weekends to snag one. The picnic area is just steps from the sand, so you can keep an eye on the kids while they play.
Bring your own:
- Charcoal and lighter fluid
- All your food and drinks (no food vendors here)
- Trash bags (please pack out your stuff)
- General picnic gear
Some tables are shaded by trees, which is a lifesaver on hot days. The $7-8 parking fee covers all the facilities, so it’s a pretty affordable outing.
Hiking and Trails Near Heart’s Desire Beach
Heart’s Desire Beach connects to a bunch of scenic trails that wind through diverse habitats in Point Reyes National Seashore. There’s something for every hiking level—whether you want an easy stroll or something a bit more ambitious.
Popular Hiking Routes
The Jepson Trail is a local favorite. It’s a moderately challenging, 2-mile out-and-back that takes about an hour. You’ll walk through a lovely, mossy forest with oak, bay, madrone, and wax myrtle.
There’s also the Johnstone Trail, starting at the south end of the beach. Right away, you head into lush forest with all kinds of native trees.
If you’re in the mood for a beach hike, trails link Heart’s Desire to Indian Beach, Pebble Beach, and Shell Beach. You can mix and match based on your mood and how much energy you’ve got left.
The Vista Point Picnic Area connects to several trails too, so you can grab a snack and then set off on your next adventure.
Wildlife Viewing Opportunities
The trails around Heart’s Desire Beach are a treat for wildlife enthusiasts all year long. With such a variety of habitats, you never really know what you might spot—deer, raccoons, and a parade of birds are regulars, especially if you’re up early or out near dusk when the woods come alive.
If you’re up for something special, the nearby Tule Elk Preserve (visitors give it a 4.8/5, for what it’s worth) lets you try your luck at spotting elk from some of the higher trails. Sometimes you’ll catch them grazing or moving through the hills, and honestly, it’s a bit of a thrill.
Birdwatchers, you’ll want those binoculars. The edge where forest meets shoreline draws in all sorts of feathered visitors—migratory and local alike.
Just a heads up: give all critters their space and skip the snacks-for-wildlife routine. It’s better for everyone.
Access to Millerton Point
Millerton Point is a solid change of pace and a quick drive from Heart’s Desire Beach. It hooks into the Point Reyes National Seashore trail network and gives you a whole new angle on Tomales Bay—less forest, more open grasslands and coastal scrub. The vibe is different, and honestly, a welcome break if you’ve had your fill of trees.
The trails here are mostly flat and easy, so families with little ones or anyone not looking for a workout can still get their nature fix without breaking a sweat. The views don’t disappoint, either.
Essential Visitor Information
Before you head out to Heart’s Desire Beach, here’s a quick rundown. This peaceful spot in Tomales Bay State Park is perfect for families, but there are a few things you should know to make your day go smoothly.
Planning Your Visit
Parking will set you back $7-8 per vehicle, and you’ll need a credit card for the machine. The beach has the basics—restrooms, picnic tables, BBQ grills. On weekends and holidays, the lot fills up fast, especially in summer, so arriving early is your best bet.
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Bring your own food and drinks since you won’t find any shops or snack bars. The big picnic benches are great for groups or family get-togethers.
It’s about an hour’s drive from Berkeley, give or take, and a little longer from other Bay Area spots. The beach sits just outside Inverness in western Marin.
You’ll want to pack:
- Beach chairs and blankets
- Sunscreen (fog or not, you’ll need it)
- Warm layers (weather flips fast)
- Water shoes for rocky bits
Accessibility Features
Accessible parking is right by the entrance, and a paved path runs from the lot to the sand and picnic spots—wheelchairs and strollers can make the trip. The main picnic area has tables you can roll up to, and accessible restrooms are close to the parking lot.
There aren’t usually beach wheelchairs available, so if you need one, bring your own. The bay here is calm with barely any waves, so it’s a good pick for folks with mobility concerns. The beach slopes gently into the water, making it easy for kids and anyone who wants a gradual entry, though the sand can get uneven in places.
Seasonal Considerations and Events
Summer (June-August) is prime time for crowds and warm weather, but the water stays chilly—still, you’ll see plenty of swimmers from July to September.
Fall is quieter and can be just as lovely, especially around Labor Day when locals squeeze in one last beach day. In spring, the trails pop with wildflowers, but you might get some rain and cooler temps. Winter (November-February) is the time for solitude, though don’t count on all the facilities being open.
Annual happenings include:
- Junior Ranger programs in summer
- Beach cleanups in April
- Guided nature walks on select weekends
- Local fishing derbies in early fall
The beach almost never closes, but after a big storm or during red tide, you should check for advisories.
Nearby Attractions and Day Trips
Heart’s Desire Beach sits in a sweet spot—surrounded by natural beauty and good food. Within an hour, you can wander through historic sites, eat fresh seafood, or stumble onto a secret corner of the coast.
Exploring Point Reyes and the Pacific Coast
Point Reyes National Seashore is packed with places to explore. The Point Reyes Lighthouse sits on a cliff with sweeping ocean views. Built in 1870, it’s a trek—308 steps down and back up—but the view is worth it.
The Tule Elk Preserve is a must for wildlife fans. Spring and fall are the best times to see the herds, and if you’re lucky, you’ll catch the males sparring during rutting season (August-October).
Hiking here covers everything from easy strolls to all-day adventures. The Earthquake Trail (0.6 miles) gives you a peek at the San Andreas Fault, and the Tomales Point Trail (9.5 miles round-trip) delivers wildflowers and elk if you’re up for the distance.
Popular Trails Near Heart’s Desire:
- Johnstone Trail (2.8 miles)
- Jepson Trail (1.8 miles)
- Shell Beach Trail (0.7 miles)
Oyster Farms and Local Cuisine
Tomales Bay is famous for oysters, and for good reason. Hog Island Oyster Company in Marshall serves up fresh oysters with a view. If you plan ahead, you can reserve a picnic table and eat right there.
The Marshall Store does grilled and smoked oysters, plus local cheese and wine. Their outdoor deck is simple but the views are top-notch.
Point Reyes Station, just 15 minutes away, is home to Cowgirl Creamery—watch them make cheese, then sample some. Toby’s Feed Barn runs a Saturday farmers market with produce, baked goods, and crafts.
For dinner, Nick’s Cove Restaurant is a favorite. The seafood is fresh, the menu changes with the seasons, and if you decide to stay the night, their old-school waterfront cottages are pretty charming.
Other Notable Beaches
Stinson Beach is about 30 minutes south—a 3-mile stretch of sand facing the open Pacific. Surfers love the waves, and families stick to the lifeguarded swim zones (May-September).
Muir Beach is smaller and more tucked away, with tide pools and a cozy cove. The overlook nearby gives you a killer coastline view without the crowds.
Limantour Beach in Point Reyes is great for beginners learning to kayak or paddleboard. Its 2-mile stretch is perfect for wandering, looking for shells, or watching birds.
Drake’s Beach is known for its white cliffs that look a bit like England’s Dover. The broad beach and visitor center are family-friendly, and the setting is usually sheltered from harsh winds.
Tips for an Enjoyable Experience
A little prep goes a long way at Heart’s Desire Beach. If you bring the right stuff and know what to expect, you’ll have a much more relaxed day.
What to Bring and Prepare
There’s nowhere to buy food or drinks at the beach, so stop in Inverness for supplies. The parking fee is $8, and cash is easiest.
The water here is warmer than the Pacific, but don’t let that fool you—it’s still pretty cool. Bring swimsuits if you plan to swim, but also toss in some layers because the weather loves to change its mind.
Pack these:
- Beach chairs and blankets
- Sunscreen and hats
- Towels and dry clothes
- Cooler with snacks and water
- Beach toys for the kids
- Kayaks or paddleboards if you’re feeling adventurous
There are picnic tables and BBQ pits, so if you want a hot meal, bring charcoal and grilling supplies.
Beach Etiquette and Regulations
Help keep Heart’s Desire Beach beautiful—pack out your trash, since garbage bins are limited. Keep things chill so everyone, including the wildlife, can enjoy the quiet.
Swimming is allowed and generally safer than the open ocean, but there are no lifeguards. Keep an eye on kids near the water.
Rules to know:
- No dogs on the beach
- No glass containers
- Don’t take shells, plants, or wildlife
- Fires only in the BBQ pits
You can’t camp right on the beach, but nearby campgrounds in Point Reyes National Seashore are there if you want to stretch your trip overnight.
Local History and Cultural Insights
The shores of Tomales Bay have a long, layered history—from the Coast Miwok people to European explorers and everyone in between.
Native Peoples and Early Inhabitants
The Coast Miwok people called Tomales Bay and Heart’s Desire Beach home long before anyone else arrived. For thousands of years, they lived off the land and water, harvesting shellfish, hunting, and gathering plants.
Their villages dotted the shoreline, and families relied on the bay’s clams, oysters, and fish. The Miwok were known for their beautiful baskets, woven from local grasses and reeds, often used for gathering and preparing seafood.
When you walk Heart’s Desire Beach today, you’re treading ground that supported generations of Coast Miwok. Their visible presence may have faded, but their legacy lingers in the land’s names and the archaeological sites scattered across Marin County.
Francis Drake and Historical Landmarks
Back in 1579, Sir Francis Drake probably dropped anchor near Tomales Bay while sailing around the world. His ship, the Golden Hinde, was in rough shape and needed some TLC, so those calm waters must’ve seemed perfect for repairs.
Drake claimed the land for England and called it “Nova Albion”—basically, New England. There’s this story about a brass plate he supposedly left behind, which turned up in 1936. Turns out, it was a fake. The real thing? Still missing, as far as anyone knows.
Later on, Tomales Bay played a big role during California’s ranching boom in the 1800s. Dairy farms and fishing outfits popped up all along the shore. You can still spot some of those old barns and weathered buildings if you drive out toward Heart’s Desire Beach.
In 1952, the state set aside the area as Tomales Bay State Park. It’s a good thing, too—now folks can enjoy both the natural beauty and all that layered history.
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